How to 3D Print With Wood Fill PLA Filament

Hot End

Temperature: 190-220 °C

Hot Bed

Temperature: 45-60 °C
Enclosure not required


Cooling required

Build Surface

Blue painters tape

Kiwi3D Wood filament is a composite that combines a PLA base material with wood fibers. Our filament is around 30% wood fibers and 70% PLA. This gives an awesome real wood look while maintaining an easy to print material. This filament is also less abrasive compared to other composite filaments such as carbon-fiber filled and metal filled, since wood particles are much softer.


Printing with wood filament is much the same as normal PLA. Start with your normal settings and tweak from there. A larger layer height can help with extrusion due to the fibers. We like to print around 210c hotend with 60c bed on our CR-10. Retraction can be a little hard to dial in. The nozzle struggles to maintain pressure due to the wood fibers, causing oozing at the start and end of layers. You can try to combat this by increasing coasting to automatically release pressure in the nozzle and reduce the change of stringing and blobs on the surface.


To get the most out of your wood filament some post-processing is required. A light sand to get rid of any stringing and blobs as well bring out the wood fibers is a good start. To take your prints to the next level though, you're going to want some wood stain. There are so many options on the market, you can almost stain your print any wood colour you like. Below, I have stained a sword stand with a red kwila stain.

Now you have a better understanding of printing with wood filament. What projects would you print in wood? If you're keen to give wood fill a try check out our filament below.

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2 thoughts on “How to 3D Print With Wood Fill PLA Filament

  1. I tried a spool of wood PLA filament (CHINESE) last year but had terrible problems with blockages, after which I saw a recommendation about using a 0.5 nozzle but leave slicer set to 0.4mm DUE TO THE FIBRES. aNY SLICER SUGGESTIONS TO AVOID THIS?

    1. Interesting. I have not heard that one before. It definitely could help as it would give the fibres more room to flow out. I normally print with a 0.4mm nozzle and set my layer height to 0.28mm and temperature a little higher than normal at 210c. This allows the fibres to flow better but does produce more stringing. Another thing that can cause blocked nozzles while printing with wood fill is retraction. Try dialling it back a bit.

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